The Forest of Paimpont - Nature Lovers Dream.
Situated about twenty mile west of Rennes is the remainder of the huge forest which once covered almost the whole of central Brittany an ideal day out for lovers of tranquillity and natural history. Here you will find wide allees criss-crossing the countryside as well as heathland and rocky outcrops. Habitats for otherwise rarely seen animals, plants and birds which will add to the richness of your holiday. The village of Paimpont itself is largely Napoleonic in build and is an attractive and, in summer busy, little place with a large Abbey and lake. To get the commercials out of the way first, there are several bars, two creperies and one hotel with restaurant. Together, a useful little epicerie, bakery and a butchers shop can, between them, can provide all you need for a good picnic. And on a fine day there is no better place for al fresco eating to be found. Visitors from the U.K. are often surprised by the variety of birds an animals they find here. There are, of course, Red Deer which can often be seen crossing the alles particularly early and late in the day and, if you are very lucky, you may well see Wild Boar. Both of these are generally more frightened of us than we are of them so are not a threat! The Squirrels are all red ones and for animal lovers it is often possible to see Stoats, Weasels, even Muskrats in some of the lakes, plus a good variety of other small mammals and amphibians including the Fire Salamander which is sometimes found in damp areas. If insects are your thing you may be lucky enough to find a Preying Mantis, here at the northern edge of its range, and a wide variety of Dragon and Damsel flies including the very aptly named Beautiful Demoiselle a flying emerald or sapphire according to its sex.
In late summer and autumn, the forest becomes the hunting ground of the mushroom picker. Given a good year, there is a huge variety of colourful fungi to be seen and, in some cases, enjoyed though for this you need to be absolutely sure of what you are collecting and if in doubt, take your catch to the chemist for identification. This is a very useful service which aims to prevent illness or worse caused by the over-enthusiasm of some mushroom pickers! Above all, however, the forest is noted for its bird population. It has been said that if it flies, it can be found here. This, of course, is a great exaggeration but there are indeed quite a few rarities to reward the patient
ornithologist. The bird books will tell you that the Black Woodpecker does not exist here it does, however, and while it is more often heard than seen, even a brief
sighting is impressive. The bird has a Crow like flight and the male sports a striking red cap (the female has a red patch at the back of the head which is less obvious) the drumming of the Black Woodpecker is very loud and thus gives a good clue to its location,
At the other end of the scale come the small Crested Tits which are often to be found in flocks among pine trees. Increasingly, during the last few years, Egrets have come to colonise some of the lakes, Le Pas du Houx for example, and there are frequent records of the Great and Little Egret. The populations of waterfowl are at their most impressive in the autumn and winter and if you are lucky you might find a
Smew.
Raptors are very much in evidence, the most common being the Kestrel, Sparrowhawk and Buzzard. But again, with luck you will see Montagues, Hen and Marsh Harriers and, rarely though not impossibly a Peregrine. In other words, nothing seems to be impossible here..
For the wildflower lovers there is much on offer in the Spring. Along the roadside there are Loose Flowered and Early Spotted Orchids and in the more heathy areas there are also Green Winged Orchids to be found. In some damp areas the Sundew is a preciously guarded secret this is a carnivorous plant which digests the small insects which are unfortunate enough to land on it. Those of you familiar with the Promenades Randonnees walking tours of France will find an excellent Topo-Guide (in French!) to the area which is well illustrated and provided with detailed maps and information about the natural history of the region. This is a publication of the Federation Francaise de la Randonnees
Pedestre and is available in the local newsagents, (Presse) and in small local shops as well. In addition to being a good field guide, this will make a lasting and intesting souvenir of your visit. For which we wish you un bon sejour et bon retour en Broceliande!
P.R.M.
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